
100,000,000
years ago Oregon was-- under the Pacific Ocean. A visitor from another
planet, as there were no humans yet, would have seen ocean waves lapping
the shore near McCall, Idaho. Things happened-- as they tend to do
where it comes to the earth. Volcanic eruptions, uplifts, weather and
eventually Oregon rose to take its place as the left wing capitol of the
country-- well not really.
Places like John Day Fossil Beds
National Monument's three units (Sheep Rock, Painted Hills, and Clarno)
give us a sense of timelessness and time. It cannot help but make
anybody think that climate change is both inevitable and something we
better plan for-- over say a few million years, give or take a few.
Where I wal

ked
through beautiful stone canyons, once there were lush forests with
100" of rain a year, where predators and prey lived together. Some of
the species living then didn't evolve into anything else. They
disappeared. Others can be recognized (with DNA) still today. None of
them had any idea that things might change because their concerns were
strictly about from where their next meal might come.
The earth did change though due to more volcanic action, mo

re earthquakes and uplifts and a steady change of the climate that left behind a fossil record from what they call
The Age of the Mammals
that is fascinating and really does stir the soul. My guess is most who
visit this Monument, not that well publicized nor known, have already
felt stirred by the history of earth.
To help a person
equilibrate themselves to the vast sense of time and change, the Thomas
Condon Paleontology Center is a great spot to start. There you find
fossil exhibits, a working laboratory where you can spy on the work
through a glass window, painting

s
and exhibits to help you see what animals would have been out there say
20 million years ago. It also directs you to the various units.
This
is a glimpse into that time after the extinction of the dinosaurs until
the Ice Age. Some of the fossils of animals I saw as familiar but

others were new to me. What made some survive and others disappear? Fascinating story with no definitive answer-- yet anyway.
Here
we get a view of earth's physical reality where sometimes we have had
absolutely nothing to do with what happens-- like the recent string of
earthquakes in Indonesia and Samoa. Not to say we cannot sometimes have
an impact with our human finger in every pie attitude.

Spending
some time in the center is helpful, but the real experience is walking
the many hiking trails to look at the layers of rock and earth. It's
beautiful but more than that, it feels spiritual and to a pagan like
me-- sacred. Earth is more awe inspiring than the most beautiful temple
ever made by man and some of these formations seem very much like
cathedrals.
When we reached the end of one trail (signs clearly
mark where visitors can go) we heard a tapping farther up the canyon. A
gentle, steady tapping. Back at the center we asked to be sure but were
relatively positive that it was a crew from there. The careful work goes
on in the laboratory as the matrix is further removed from the fossils.
There
were others visiting the monument but not many. It was easy to find
quiet places to just sit and think, to let it all soak in.
Mankind
has only been here a few million years and in his present form only
about 90,000 years. Some of the animals that once walked the

ground where I walked, they don't exist today. Someday if mankind is foolish or maybe even if not, our species may not.
To
better understand this land and the influences that made it what it is,
at the museum, we asked what they recommended. We bought the book
In Search of Ancient Oregon by Eileen Morris Bishop. It has many photographs and well-written texts to help put

the story of Oregon's beginning, the stages through which it went, that
got us from 100 million years ago (when dinosaurs roamed Montana)
through the processes that bring us to today-- which is clearly not the
end of Oregon's story even if we humans might like to think so.
Going
somewhere like John Day Fossil Beds puts our own time on earth into
perspective. I don't know what its energy is, but it's strong. Is it
those animals wanting their stories to be told? They didn't die leaving
no sign behind. Their stories are being told. It's a blessing that
others saw these places and worked to preserve them for future
generations to have the chance to walk back through time.