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Saturday, March 24, 2007

back in Arizona

On the road again... well not really but just off the road and back in Arizona. The drive from Oregon to Tucson, Arizona, can be done by several routes. The shortest is south through California, across that state from Bakersfield to Needles, then angling across the state of Arizona to Tucson. Most of the drive is monotonous, tiring, hard on the back, and boring. Did I mention monotonous?

I started traveling between these two states when I was 21 and can't even begin to say how many times. Suffice it to say when I began, there was no I-5. Twice it was on a bus, not a trip I'd recommend. Then there was the time coming up when heavily pregnant, with no air conditioning, and in the hottest days of the summer.

The first time down I-5, it was barren, with nothing alongside the freeway. When we drove down last week, agriculture was covering almost all the formerly sagebrush and grass covered ground. This was totally due to water-- canals. Those canals are changing Arizona too and little by little all the previously barren lands are being plowed and planted. I don't know if that is good or not. I heard on one of the talk radio programs (one of the ways to make the miles pass down through California) that the United States is a large exporter of food; so guess it's good-- except I keep thinking where are all the creatures who used to live on these lands? I think the same thing when I am in Tucson as that is also developing and changing so that it's hard to recognize it as the city I first saw 42 years ago.

I usually dread the drive down, put it off until it just can't be put off longer and it's only when I get into Arizona that I feel the love swell up to remind me why the Sonoran Desert spoke to my soul first time I saw it and it has never quit. Why is it that things I love so much, like the Pacific Northwest and the Southwest, have to be over a thousand miles apart?

Every time I come down, I am surprised at the growth. So much of the desert where I have hiked, looked for minerals, picnicked, painted, and savored is disappearing under the wheels of progress. As our population and that of the world expands, I can only be grateful I saw all of this before it was gone. I recognize change is part of life, some of it is very good, but it is also inevitable. Fortunately for me no way can they golf or farm those hills; so some will remain-- unless they start building housing developments and resorts in them...

All of these pictures were taken along the freeways somewhere between Quartzite and Casa Grande at about 70 mph-- no I was not driving-- where at least for now the land is still open and mostly undeveloped. The hills and sky change every mile. Every year there is the time of seeing the first saguaro. I actually saw one in Parker but since it was planted, it didn't count.

I suppose to someone who is conditioned to green and treed slopes, this country might not seem pretty, but to me it's mystical and beautiful. I love seeing the angles of the mountains, the way the purple changes with the light, and the sky overhead that goes from placid to stormy. When I get to the Sonoran Desert, the drive changes from one that I am tolerating to one that I am excited about what I am seeing and feeling.

Then there is the sky. Words don't do justice to describing this constantly changing and expansive sky. The first night here, an Arizona sunset provided the perfect coda to the symphony of sky and mountain that I had been enjoying all day.

(Please take a moment to expand these pictures. Since I was posting so many, I made them small and small doesn't do these hills justice.)

9 comments:

robin andrea said...

It is beautiful there. Your pics are great. That sunset picture is really like a sky on fire. It's been so gray up here on the peninsula, I have forgotten the colors of the sky at sundown.

About all that planting in the desert--the only big problem I see is that there's no water there. Depleting aquifers for new agriculture in the desert is not a smart idea. In California, houses are built on prime agricultural land. We don't do long-term environmental planning very well, do we?

Dick said...

I missed my winter in Arizona this year but hope to get back down there for at least a short visit next winter. I prefer to totally miss the Phoenix area so continue south from Quartzsite on AZ 95 to Yuma, then east on I-8 until it meets I-10 and then on to Tucson.

You are right about the sky and sunsets in the desert. Especially when there is dust or clouds in the sky. I think the best way of life would be winters in the SW, summers in the NW and spring/fall spent traveling in-between.

Anonymous said...

I long to go to Arizona and New Mexico. My husband recently retired and when we talked about getting away on a trip, I talked about those two places. Unfortunately, they don't interest him. I guess I will just have to plan on going myself sometime. So with that in mind, thanks for the pictures so that I can, at least for the time being, visit there via the Internet.

Rain Trueax said...

I agree, Robin. We don't use good judgment on a lot. Tucson does have a large aquifer but the new growth is being fed by a canal down from the Colorado. We were not in favor of it when then President Carter begun it as we knew what it'd do to this area-- let it depend on an artificial source of water for its growth.

It has changed so much because when an aquifer limits you, you can only develop so much. With that canal, it has increased the potential but the lesson of the Hohokam should not be forgotten. They were an early people in this region who used canals to likewise grow more and increase their population until the source for the canals began to dry up in a long drought-- which the Southwest has been in for some years now.

The Colorado goes up and down and its water is sought by two states-- not to mention Mexico would like to see a little left when it gets to them. It used to support a riparian zone down there but now is just about done by there and was polluted with agricultural practices (haven't read if that has improved).

And for anyone, like Dick, who actually drives to Tucson, when having come down through California, we come across to Needles, take 95 to where 72 cuts off, down to Vicksburg and hit 10 without actually going into Quartzite. We go down 10 to Buckeye, take 85 south again and hit 8 to do what you do, Dick-- avoid Phoenix.

The alternative is to go straight across from Needles to Flagstaff and get a bit of time in Sedona which we much love also, but then you have to go through Phoenix. It is somewhat better since they got the new freeway that avoids 17.

Rain Trueax said...

Glad to see you here, Cathy, and there will be a lot of desert pictures in the next week as it's one of my favorite hobbies when here-- photographing, sculpting or painting; since no paints with me, no time for a sculpture, it'll be a lot of photography

Ingineer66 said...

Nice pics and descriptions Rain. That Colorado River water is going to be in high demand as Arizona and Nevada keep growing and wanting to take more that they use to send to Los Angeles. Up here in Nor Cal we send a lot of water south, but if we don't then we are going to have to make room for 20 million more people up here where the water is.
Around here we are building houses on Class 1 Agricultural soil so that we can protect rocky volcanic soil that is no good for anything except that they have been deemed environmentally sensitive. If this keeps up we may get hungry one day.

Anonymous said...

What a great way to pass a long, monotonous trip--take photos out the window. And wonderful photos they are.

I haven't been in Tucson for probably 14 years, but do go to Phoenix from time to time as we have family there. I like Tucson better. I just spent some hours with my former niece (my ex's nephews ex wife) who is from Phoenix and has lived here in L.A. off and on. She just tried coming back--worked here 5 months, but she misses her family and friends--and the familiarity of where she was born and raised.

I look forward to seeing your photos in the weeks coming up. When you travel like this, you must have a crew watching the ranch, yes? By the way, when the irrigation in the Phoenix area began years back, those who had moved there for health purposes found that it was no longer a good place if you had allergies or asthma; the humidity was too high. And, at least in Phoenix, there's smog. I assume there is in Tucson, too, by now. My favorite areas in Arizona are Sedona and the Flagstaff area.

There's a desert zoo there in Tucson that I just love to go to. I hope your creative juices are beginning to flow from the beauty around you. I have an affinity for the Mojave desert from the years we camped there, but I had to learn to love it.

Anonymous said...

Just catching up, and LOVING your desert pictures! I have never been to upper Arizona, just across the bottom on 10. talk about UGH!! and I crossed it at night because of the heat! Someday I will make it to the Grand Canyon, and the high desert country!

Joared said...

Your Arizona commentary and pictures brought many memories for me. First, a few months in 1948 in Tucson as a young girl which was my first encounter with a desert that captured my love. Then, many years later when my husband and I vacationed there in the summer, driving cross country with no air conditioning, so know exactly what you mean about the heat.

We eventually moved to Scottsdale where every weekend we toured the state. I'll never forget the sadness I felt our first Christmas almost forty years ago when the local news headlines were that smog had finally come to the Phoenix area.

I think without question all the human growth, destruction of the surrounding desert area being replaced by golf courses and so much unnatural planting and agriculture is doing irreparable damage to the area. Summers became much more unpleasant with humidity heretofore absent to the degree present now with all the watering.

Tucson was such a special area but that area too has not been spared growth and environmental pollution. The attitude of newcomers both places, and mine, was, "Now that I'm here, we don't want anyone else to come."

I'll never forget leaving the Black Canyon Freeway going north toward Flagstaff to drive through Sedona and up the back road with hairpin drives those many years ago, long before the area became so filled with people, and worst of all the development along that road into Sedona. My first sight of the Red Rocks was absolutely mesmerizing, and with me always. My husband's ashes were scattered by air onto those Red Rocks last summer. Since the dust is what gives so much color to the beautiful sunsets, he would be pleased to know he is now part of an area we both loved, and which holds other special significance for our immediate family.

I might add, some years ago when I traveled to Red Rock Country alone, I had an unexpected experience that I can only describe as spiritual. I look forward to returning there again.