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Monday, April 09, 2007

Sabino Canyon

The earliest sign of man in Sabino Canyon, just northeast of Tucson, appears to have been 12,500 years ago. The occupation was mostly nomadic and the Hohokam villages found today were below-- most likely because the canyon is prone to fierce floods which even today wipe out whatever man has built.

In 1887, a big earthquake in Mexico tumbled rocks in the canyon. You can still see the results; and when I hike there, I always think of what it must have been like to have been up there when it happened. The people living in Tucson said they saw the clouds of dust rise high over the canyon.

During the Great Depression, stone bridges were built to cross the creek nine places. They were structured to allow the water to cascade over them when the creek is high (photo is that happening).

Before I found Catalina State Park, Sabino was my favorite hiking place. I first was there in 1965 when you could still drive the canyon road to the end-- 3.8 miles. It was narrow, with pull- outs for parking and climbing down to the water to picnic and wade-- a few pools deep enough for children to swim.

As Tucson grew, the number of people wanting to use Sabino grew; and in 1978, the road was closed to motorized vehicles. except for paying a fee to ride noisy, smelly trams (does that sound bitter?), biking and hiking.

The park has been closed now and then due to storms. The most recent was in July of '06 where for 6 days and nights, the skies poured forth 10" of rain, resulting in flash floods that wiped out the bridge over Rattlesnake Creek, a usually dry tributary to Sabino, and destroying parts of the road up the canyon. The trams still cannot go to the top, but evidently they plan to have it rebuilt by next fall and tourist season. They will never rebuild the outhouse building at the top as part of that heavy rain launched a landslide of gigantic rocks burying it.

Sabino now charges an admittance fee which can be paid once a year for unlimited use, or daily for tourists. In my case, as soon as I turned 62, I bought my Golden Age Passport for $10. With it, for the rest of my life, I will gain admittance to all national parks-- camping extra. We had always bought the Golden Eagle anyway as we feel to support these parks is well worth doing. I just hope they all stay open for future generations to reap the same benefits we have.

To walk into Sabino Canyon you leave the visitor center and head up the old road. There always seems to be a lot of people ahead and behind. Yet somehow once you get into the canyon, they spread out and you begin to have a solitary experience-- mostly.

After about half a mile, you reach the first overlook of the canyon, can look up at the high walls and in the distance see Tucson. From that point is where the real enjoyment of Sabino begins. At places you are above the creek and others you are right down alongside-- and in the case of this trip-- in it as the rains had water flowing over many of the stone bridges. The mileage is marked and I usually settle for walking two miles up, stopping many times along the way to wade in the creek, look for flowers, birds, and the illusive perfect photograph that will capture the feeling of this place.

I usually see cardinals but this last time I was disappointed that while I could hear their song, I didn't see any. I assumed too many people in the area; then got back to the visitor center and there was this beauty with his mate. So much for the too many people theory.

My first time at Sabino was with our friends, Parapluie and her husband. A few years later we brought our small children to Arizona and Sabino Canyon, a trip repeated many times until they formed families of their own. I still hope someday to get them back there with our grandchildren to share this special place with another generation.

For me, there are many good memories in Sabino Canyon. Every time I am there, I see young families beginning what I have now finished. Sometimes I come with someone, sometimes alone, but always I feel the magic of the canyon for whatever time I spend within its walls.

7 comments:

Ingineer66 said...

It looks like a very special place. Too bad that it is like many parks. We love them to death. So many people go there that they have to close off parts so that you cannot drive where you used to drive etc. I just discovered last weekend that in our own Bidwell park that the upper park road has a new gate on it part way up that is closed so you can only walk or ride mountain bikes or horses beyond it. a few years ago, they started closing it down below when it was too muddy and kids would tear up the road and now it looks like it is going to be closed all the time. There are parallel trails for hiking, bikes and horses so it is quite disappointing that they are closing it for vehicles.
They have even closed off part the lower park paved road to cars so that this year the Shakespeare in the park will have to move because you can no longer drive to where they set up the amphitheater. Seems to me when they close a park off to the people and it is so close to town, the only people that ended up using it are the homeless and the criminals that don't care about all the rules against alcohol and glass bottles and trash etc. And without common folks driving through there is no one to keep an eye on those people and the police don't go in there that much because they have to open and close gates to get in instead of just being able to drive through on regular patrol.
Sorry to vent there just a pet peeve of mine.

Rain Trueax said...

In the case of Sabino, with frequent open-sided trams to take people to the top-- when the road gets repaired-- more can enjoy it than could have with the cars. The tram has many stops and people can get out, walk awhile and get back on-- once they paid for that pass.

When cars still drove up, the road was narrow, not a lot of places to park. The automobile doesn't always add to the enjoyment of an area.

Because it is a paved road, I have seen people up there with wheelchairs and walkers. One man who had been badly hurt in a construction fall, walked it every day and took himself from being crippled back to health. You could see it happening as you met him along the way. I thought perhaps he had had a stroke, but then his story got in the newspaper.

Ingineer66 said...

That is cool that they have trams. You are right it probably adds to the enjoyment not having all those cars. But still sad to lose freedoms because of too many people, but you cant stop it, just remember the good old days. In our case it is just closed to vehicles. The bicycle lobby seems to have a lot of power lately.

Anonymous said...

That just likes like a wonderful place to walk and think! I have always been fascinated by the desert. I don't like the idea of closing it off to traffic, but on the otherhand, we do love our places to death, so if you can still get there, and do what you want to do and then get back, all without a lot of cars, then I am all for it.

joared said...

I have many fond memories of time spent in the outskirts of Tucson in the desert. Expect the area is overrun with residences now.

Also, recall many years later as an adult visiting, I believe, a Sonoran Desert Museum. I particularly recall seeing an inlaid table top made from the interior wood of dead "Man of the Mountain" cacti. The stips were arranged in such a way there was actually a variation in shades and tone. Wish I had a picture of it. I recall thinking I would accummulate similar wood and undertake to make a small one of my own. Another good idea that I never carried out.

OldLady Of The Hills said...

What a very very beautiful place Rain....I have never heard of it before....It is wonderful to be introduced to it through your eyes...And knowing you have been coming here for such a very long time...Extrordinary!
That picture with the Sequoro's is quite fantastic. Knowing how long it takes for this wonderful plant to grow--1/2 inch a year....! Seeing these plants so tall and stately, tells you how truly magnificent they are! And, I LOVED the Cardinal....Gorgeous Bird!

Sandy said...

I have heard of it but have never been. Your pictures are beautiful and show me what it might be like. Where we are many places are not accessible by car so we're used to walking/hiking. The one trip I have yet to do is out to Cape Scott, I've seen many pictures and it looks gorgeous. It's a long hike in but well worth it.